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A great alternative to Burgundy, from one of the Loire Valley’s great wine families
When we think of Pinot Noir, our minds naturally travel to Burgundy.
But Pinot Noir has travelled far beyond the Côte d’Or.
In the Loire Valley, Sancerre offers a completely different expression of the grape: fresher, more mineral and often wonderfully elegant.
The Sancerre Rouge 2022 from Domaine Fouassier is a perfect example.
It is unmistakably Pinot Noir, but it speaks with the accent of Sancerre.
Sancerre is not only Sauvignon Blanc
Sancerre is one of those appellations that has become almost synonymous with white wine.
Ask for a Sancerre and most people will expect a crisp Sauvignon Blanc.
Yet the appellation also produces red wines from Pinot Noir.
And when the vineyard and the winemaking are taken seriously, these wines can be remarkable.
The Domaine Fouassier Sancerre Rouge comes from 3.8 hectares of vines, planted on soils composed of around 90% limestone, with the remainder made up of clay and flint formations.
That limestone plays an important role in the character of the wine, bringing freshness and a distinctive mineral dimension.
Old vines, carefully farmed
The Pinot Noir vines are between 35 and 55 years old, planted at high density and yielding around 35 hectolitres per hectare.
At Domaine Fouassier, the vineyard is farmed organically and biodynamically, with Biodyvin certification since 2011 and Demeter certification since 2022.
The approach is based on respecting the living soil and allowing the vineyard to express its individual character.
The grapes are harvested by hand in small 25kg crates before being carefully sorted.
There is no shortcut when you’re looking for character.
Pinot Noir with a Sancerre accent
In the cellar, the philosophy remains remarkably natural.
The grapes are fermented entirely with indigenous yeasts, with the work following the lunar calendar.
A cold pre-fermentation maceration lasts around eight days, followed by a long cuvaison of three to five weeks, depending on the vintage.
The wine is then aged for around twelve months in large oak foudres before being bottled without filtration.
Importantly, this is not a wine designed to taste like heavily oaked Burgundy.
The oak is there to support the wine rather than dominate it.
The 2022 vintage
The 2022 Sancerre Rouge has an intense garnet colour.
The nose immediately reveals the darker side of Pinot Noir, with aromas of black fruits and ripe berries.
On the palate, there is concentration and plenty of fruit, supported by a clear structural backbone.
It is elegant, but it also has character.
There is a certain tension between the delicate nature we associate with Pinot Noir and the more structured, mineral personality of the Sancerre terroir.
And that is precisely what makes it interesting.
A serious alternative to Burgundy
If you love Burgundy, this is a wine worth exploring.
It doesn’t try to imitate it.
Instead, it shows how versatile Pinot Noir can be when planted in a completely different environment.
Sancerre brings its limestone soils, cooler Loire influence and distinctive freshness to the grape, creating a wine that feels lighter on its feet while still possessing depth and structure.
It is a reminder that great Pinot Noir doesn’t always have to come from Burgundy.
Sometimes, you simply have to look a little further west.
From the table to the cellar
The 2022 is particularly well suited to food.
Think red meats, dishes with rich sauces, game or mature cheeses.
Serve it around 14–18°C, slightly cooler than you might serve a powerful Bordeaux or Rhône red.
And, like many serious Pinot Noirs, it will reward patience.
For us, this is one of the most exciting things about Sancerre Rouge: a familiar grape variety, a familiar name, but a completely different interpretation.
Domaine Fouassier Sancerre Rouge 2022 — Pinot Noir, the Loire Valley way.
Also available in half bottle:
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